Chine logs

I decided to get going on the interior chine logs for the pram.  I cut the bevel to the greatest angle, consistently for the entire length of the chine, 30 degrees, and I plan to plane the chines to the needed angle after they are attached.  The angle at the ends is about 20 degrees.
The intent here is not to get the exact shape that the chines will eventually need to conform to, but rather to get them close enough so that the work of fastening them goes easy and nothing breaks!  I did this with my toe rails when i put new larger ones on my 27 foot cruiser.  I took the lengths of wood and tied them to the stanchions and over the course of about a month and a half I slowly drew them in with a spanish windlass.  Being that the boat was outside and uncovered the rain and sun all helped the process so that when I made the final attachment the wood was just about perfect.  This was especially good as I did not have the means to steam bend a 1-1/2"x2-1/2"x 30 foot length of wood.

Chines being "bent" by clamping and weights and letting the wood get used to the new shape.

In this case the chines wood is much stiffer than the plywood of the sides, so the preformed chines are important to get a good final shape, as well as a few station molds.

Once the chines have set for a while I will go ahead and flip the boat over and attach them to the sides.
The chines will give a good glueing surface and keeps me from making this a stitch and glue type of build.  I am not sure why I don't want to use epoxy for the chine, but there ya go!

a simple spanish windlass on each end pulls the chine logs together and helps to get the needed curve.   The chine logs are longer than needed right now, so they need to be bent out of their final position.

The water tightness of the boat will depend on how well I fit the chine log and how well I spread the waterproof glue that will work with fasteners to join the bottom to the sides.